Amid a riot of colors and textures, faculty and students from Cornell Human Ecology’s Department of Human Centered Design (HCD) marvel at the swatches and garments on display in the MVR 1250 gallery.

Knitwear experts Thijs Verhaar and Lyske Gais spent two weeks embedded in HCD as the 2024 Designers in Residence. During the residency, they attended classes; hosted workshops, a gallery exhibit and a lecture; and made themselves available to faculty and students.

Verhaar is the founder of Knitwear Lab, a sustainable knitwear design and manufacturing company located in the Netherlands and Turkey. Knitwear Lab also trains knitwear professionals, designers and students through masterclasses and courses. Gais is founder of Virtual Knitting by Knitwear Lab. She brings a background in architecture to 3D visualization software improving graphic output and reducing reliance on extensive swatching.

“The designer in residence program is so important because students get to know somebody who is doing the work that they want to do,” said Melissa Conroy, senior lecturer in human centered design and a knitwear designer. “I thought Thijs and Lyske would be a great fit for the program. As a knitter, I see the brilliance in their design work. They also understand the challenges of industrial knitting and have maintained a high caliber of design and innovation over time while competing as a fashion business.”

Part of the allure of knitting is that the mastery of basic stitches yields infinite possibilities. For designers, there is the added appeal of having full control, not just of the finished garment, but also the textile. Verhaar and Gais emphasized these points during public workshops, teaching participants how they create abstract designs from simple foundations.

“Spending time with Thijs and Lyske is a highlight of my student experience,” said Raquel Coren ’25, fashion design major and teaching assistant for Knitwear Design and Other Knit Applications (FSAD 4370). “I had an aha moment after learning about their company ethos. It’s cool how their brand bridges innovation, product design and teaching.” Coren will travel to the Netherlands in January to take a class at the Knitwear Lab.

During their residency, Gais and Verhaar visited undergraduate classes in interior design, fashion design, fiber science and fashion sustainability, where they contributed to class discussions and participated in student critiques.

After receiving comments from Gais and Verhaar, Madison Feely ’26, redesigned her quilt-inspired sweater, changing the pattern scale and color palette to create a more memorable garment.  

“They were honest and supportive in their feedback,” said Feely.  “They challenged our class to push the limits of our knitting machine and programming skills.”

The residency also offered time for cross-disciplinary exploration and discussion with faculty within and beyond HCD. Relationship-building is the hallmark of the residency, as the designer becomes part of the Human Ecology community – offering inspiration, critique, and insight.

“We had some great discussions about greenwashing and the challenge of sourcing truly sustainable fibers,” said Larissa Shepherd, HCD assistant professor who teaches required courses in fiber science and apparel design. “The designers recognize that what sets Cornell apart from many design schools is that we educate our students on the fiber and chemistry of textiles in addition to design.”

The Designer in Residence program is supported by Lori Oscher Friedman ’91, whose own student experience was impacted by a visiting designer. Previous designers in residence include a wearable tech expert, a multidisciplinary artist and a luxury-upcycler.